Connecting and joining wires: Difference between revisions
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==Summary== | ==Summary== | ||
Often during a repair, wires need to be connected or reconnected. Perhaps a worn out flex is being replaced or a failed thermal fuse. Simply twisting the wires together would hardly ever be a good idea, but there are several other ways of doing it. | Often during a repair, wires need to be connected or reconnected. Perhaps a worn out flex is being replaced or a failed thermal fuse. Simply twisting the wires together would hardly ever be a good idea, but there are several other ways of doing it. | ||
If you are regularly doing repairs then you may find it useful to keep a few connectors of different types in your tool box. | |||
===Safety=== | ===Safety=== | ||
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Electricians often use a circular junction box without cable clamps, but this is only acceptable where all the cables entering it are secured along their length with cable clips, often nailed to a joist. | Electricians often use a circular junction box without cable clamps, but this is only acceptable where all the cables entering it are secured along their length with cable clips, often nailed to a joist. | ||
===Choc block | ===Choc block connectors=== | ||
These come in strips which can be easily cut according to the number of wires you need to connect. They are useful for connecting low voltage wires but offer no form of cable clamp so you should ensure that the cables cannot be strained. They contain a hole between each pair of connectors, which you can use to screw them down to a firm base. | These come in strips which can be easily cut according to the number of wires you need to connect. They are useful for connecting low voltage wires but offer no form of cable clamp so you should ensure that the cables cannot be strained. They contain a hole between each pair of connectors, which you can use to screw them down to a firm base. | ||
Choc block connectors come in various sizes such as 3A, 5A, 15A etc., but the only important thing is to ensure that they are big enough to take the wire, but at the same time, the wire is big enough to be gripped by the screw. You can always strip a little extra insulation and fold the wire double to give the screw more to grip. | |||
===Spring terminal connectors=== | ===Spring terminal connectors=== | ||
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==Soldering== | ==Soldering== | ||
Twisting the wires together and soldering is often the best method but the wires need to be clean in order to make a good joint. A little extra flux from a flux pen never does any harm and often makes it easier if the insulation has not been freshly removed. In the case of enamelled wire, the enamel needs to be scraped or burnt off. If a little remains it often won't matter and may melt with the solder. In fact some wire enamels are "solder-through" and designed to melt with the solder, but an initial scrape to get it started usually helps. | |||
If possible, you should always twist the wires in-line before soldering as this makes a stronger (and neater) join than twisting the ends together. This requires a greater length to be stripped of insulation and can be tricky if the wires differ in diameter, or if one is stranded and the other solid. | |||
==Crimping== | ==Crimping== |
Revision as of 13:01, 19 August 2018
This page covers how to safely and reliably connect, splice or join wires together.
Summary
Often during a repair, wires need to be connected or reconnected. Perhaps a worn out flex is being replaced or a failed thermal fuse. Simply twisting the wires together would hardly ever be a good idea, but there are several other ways of doing it.
If you are regularly doing repairs then you may find it useful to keep a few connectors of different types in your tool box.
Safety
- Where the wires carry mains voltage it's essential that the join is properly insulated.
- If the join may come under strain then the wires should be clamped in some way to prevent the join from pulling apart. This is essential in the case of mains voltages.
Screw and spring terminals
Probably the oldest method of connecting a wire is with a screw terminal. The screw head may hold the wire directly or preferably under a washer, or the screw may clamp the wire in a hole in a brass terminal.
In the case of stranded wire, always keep the individual strands together after stripping the insulation by firmly twisting them together, or better still, applying a little solder.
In the first case, make sure the bare end of the wire is at least long enough to make a half tun around the screw, and always wrap it round the screw in the same direction as you will be tightening it.
Where the screw clamps the wire in a hole n a brass terminal, it's often helpful to strip sufficient insulation so that you can fold the bare end double, so giving the screw plenty to grip on. Alternatively, apply solder to stranded wire.
Joining mains cables
The only way to safely join two flexible mains leads is with an in-line screw terminal connection box. This has a cable clamp at each end which must be used to clamp the outer insulation, not just the inner wires.
Electricians often use a circular junction box without cable clamps, but this is only acceptable where all the cables entering it are secured along their length with cable clips, often nailed to a joist.
Choc block connectors
These come in strips which can be easily cut according to the number of wires you need to connect. They are useful for connecting low voltage wires but offer no form of cable clamp so you should ensure that the cables cannot be strained. They contain a hole between each pair of connectors, which you can use to screw them down to a firm base.
Choc block connectors come in various sizes such as 3A, 5A, 15A etc., but the only important thing is to ensure that they are big enough to take the wire, but at the same time, the wire is big enough to be gripped by the screw. You can always strip a little extra insulation and fold the wire double to give the screw more to grip.
Spring terminal connectors
There are several types of these, and they can be used to make a quick and easy connection without any tools (except for stripping the insulation). They are often used for loudspeaker cables and in model train sets, providing a simple way for connections to be made or removed as often as needed. Applying solder to the bare end of stranded wire is helpful.
Soldering
Twisting the wires together and soldering is often the best method but the wires need to be clean in order to make a good joint. A little extra flux from a flux pen never does any harm and often makes it easier if the insulation has not been freshly removed. In the case of enamelled wire, the enamel needs to be scraped or burnt off. If a little remains it often won't matter and may melt with the solder. In fact some wire enamels are "solder-through" and designed to melt with the solder, but an initial scrape to get it started usually helps.
If possible, you should always twist the wires in-line before soldering as this makes a stronger (and neater) join than twisting the ends together. This requires a greater length to be stripped of insulation and can be tricky if the wires differ in diameter, or if one is stranded and the other solid.
Crimping
Also heat shrink crimp connectors
Insulation displacement connectors=
Telephone connectors
Scotch Lock connectors
Insulating your connections
- PVC tape
- Heat shrink sleeving
- Earth wire sleeving
External links
- External links (if any) as bullet points.
- If none, delete this section.